Picture Courtesy Of "The HO MODEL RAILROADING Handbook"
When using remote-control switches, there are good and bad places for them. Some places it is better to use manual switches. Switches more than two feet from the edge of the table or in a tunnel, should definitely be remote-control. Try to avoid them in a tunnel as they aren't accessible to work on. Switches within two feet of your control panel can be manual.
It is not necessary to solder any of your wiring connections each of the r-t-r switches and most of your connections have screws. You need to remove only about ¼ inch of insulation. I suggest using a sharp hobby knife instead of a wire stripper, this way it's not as easy to cut through the hair-like wires inside. Removing too much wire insulation could cause the bare wire to touch another near-by terminal screw and short it out.
Pay close attention to the alignment of the track switches. The ends of the switch points could be sharp enough to grab the flanges of the cars and locomotives and cause it to derail. Just trim a small amount from the corner of the switch point. Just trim what you have to and leave alone any other switches that aren't causing a problem.
In real railroading, the switch machines are never seen. Try painting the switch machine with the earth color to disguise it.
A walk-around control is a portable control pad either on a tether or extension cord, that gives the flexibility of walking around while still in control.
Try to conceal almost all of your wiring under the table, especially if it's a 4 X 8 layout. - Chris Arthur - PA
Thanx For The Tips - BigC
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